Cefalu, Sicily, Italy

A view of Cefalu from this morning relayed back to Headquarters by family living on Sicily.

(Map and History of Cefalu)

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Peculiar to the Pattern

“A man must consider what a rich realm he abdicates when he becomes a conformist.”

-Ralph Waldo Emerson (1839)

The conformity of it all is satisfying and comforting, but something is lost. It’s group think manifest in cookie cutter conformity congealing into neighborhoods across America, as if all borne of the same mushroom, its spores cast in the wind across the continent. I derive some sense of relief from odd bits peculiar to the pattern.

Like the guy in front of me in what resembles a personal spacecraft made by a four year old. The back end covered sloppily with bumper stickers demanding action and pointing fingers at the usual figures of suspicion. Affixed to the hitch cover is a sticker that reads “Be Nice” in a font resembling child’s writing.

I can see through the rear window to notice the debris deposited along the top of the dashboard like the high tide line on a dirty beach. Small figurines and animals, bottle caps, seashells, feathers, a smudge stick of dried sage, and various grasses inserted here and there standing like small flagpoles. Along with a stash of other random pickings accumulated over the years.

The Toyota 4-Runner glides down the avenue with painted tires spinning in a blur of splattered color. Patches of over spray coat the rest of the vehicle in what looks like a terrible impression of a Pollock canvas.

That’s also why I appreciate, to some extent, seeing those derelicts beside the same busy four lane avenue, perched like two mangy buzzards atop an old pine stump on a dirt slope. I catch a brief split second view of them on my way home as I speed by only to brake into the corner a quarter mile past.

The stump couldn’t be more than three feet in diameter, yet they both crouch there as if joined at the hip. A shopping cart sits below them on the sidewalk stuffed and overflowing with indiscriminate possessions, as if they had just won a shopping spree in a thrift store.

One rests on his haunches hunched over poking the stump with a stray stick, the definition of aimless. And in his aimlessness there is a certain element of freedom from the pack that is appealing, if only for a moment.

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Pine Mountain Lodge Camp

Campfire night under the pine at Pine Mountain Lodge Camp.

Last November I set off in late afternoon on the punishing climb up the Gene Marshall Trail from the Piedra Blanca trailhead to the top of Pine Mountain and the camp near the old Pine Mountain Lodge site .

Don’t ask me why I decided on that route. I’d respond that it was the closest trailhead and the shortest distance to the camp, which isn’t a good answer. You’d have to be some kind of masochist to actually enjoy the grueling uphill trudge. Okay, I might be a little dramatic here, but I’m not a mountaineer-type that routinely seeks out high peaks to climb so six miles of uphill and 3000 feet of elevation gain is plenty enough to start me whining.

I had a leg cramp near the crest of the trail just as the sunlight was starting to noticeably wane. I had a fleeting thought of staying the night right there, but knew I was too close to stop and so lumbered the remaining few hundred yards up the slope, through the cedar trees and toward the camp.

As I walked the flats atop the mountain I heard voices, which turned my typically irascible mood in its usual direction. I don’t mean to suggest that I necessarily have a problem with other hikers, but I certainly don’t hike for hours on end, sweating profusely and straining beneath a loaded pack to find myself surrounded by crowds. That is precisely what I seek to escape. It’s like hiking into a remote surf break hoping to score empty waves and seeing a couple of guys already in the water when you get there.

I moseyed on down the trail to confirm the situation and saw two guys chatting in camp and so turned and headed back down the small creek and through the bush. Fortunately the other camp was vacant. I quickly unpacked and set up shop and sparked a fire as darkness enveloped the land in its cold grasp.

Pine Mountain Lodge Camp. An old ice can stove can be seen to the right of the table. The cave shown in the photos below can be seen here toward the upper right.

It was chillier than I had hoped with remnants of crusty snow scattered about the shadier pockets of the basin from an early storm, but not thinking it’d cause me problems, I foolishly pitched my tent on the hard packed sand in the mini-meadow in which the camp is located.

It’s a sort of depression surrounded by small hills and rock formations. Just the sort of geography that funnels cold air off the hills and down into the low spot where my tent was. It was a cold night trying to rest on what felt like a slab of refrigerated cement. The hour before dawn really sucked.

The next morning I heard the two fellas over yonder getting ready to haul out. Apparently one of them started off before the other, because they were yelling back and forth to each other for several minutes before their voices faded and I had the mountain to myself.

That afternoon I moved my tent to a more sheltered location. I prepared a deep bed of pine needles under the tent and created a shallow, reclined depression to lay in. The needles served as not only padding, but as insulation, too, being that, typically, the cold ground draws the most heat out of a person during the night. Pine needles are excellent for padding and piled up they create a spongy mattress. I also piled up needles on the exterior of my tent for further insulation. I slept like a baby that second night well cushioned and toasty warm.

I spent my days lounging around reading at my makeshift Rancho Relaxo and hiking around the basin to see what I might see. I walked up the slope south of the camp and to the crest of the hill, which afforded me a spectacular view overlooking Sespe Creek and the Piedra Blanca trailhead area. I found a hole in the well weathered sandstone up there that looked to me to be an Indian grinding stone.

Another view of the camp looking the opposite direction, south, showing where I set up my tent the first night.

After the first night I moved my tent atop a small rise beneath the pines and oaks (seen in the previous photo on the left).

Showing off my pefect posture looking northward over the basin.

The two dots show the approximate locations of the two campsites. The dot on the left is where the camp shown in the photos here is located.

One of several caves in the area.

Cave’s eye view.

I assumed this to be a bedrock mortar, but am unsure. Whether it is or not, with a view like that, it sure is an excellent place for working the pestle and grinding up food!

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Oaxacan Jungle, Mexico

Wooden walkways and tile roofs amidst the verdant tangle of the Oaxacan coast.

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Upper Santa Ynez Camp Vandalism

I spent this last Tuesday in the upper Santa Ynez drainage after hiking in late Monday afternoon and staying the night. I woke at 5:15, broke camp, brewed a tall cup of coffee and chomped down some homemade cake with banana frosting. A slim sliver of moon hung in the twilight of the eastern sky, as the sun began to rise and I sipped my coffee pondering what the day might bring. Few moments in time hold out as much promise as the dawn of a new day.

Later that day I stopped for an hour at Upper Santa Ynez Camp to cook some eggs and refill water bottles. The camp gets little if any use, but there were a few signs that somebody had been there since my last visit in December 2010.

The grill was up and there were a few old coals, but no sign of a campfire in the pit. There was an empty cup of Ranch dressing in the fire pit. Apparently its owner found it easier to hike or bike in the one ounce bit of dressing, but once eaten found it just too damn heavy to pack out the plastic container despite weighing next to nothing.

The most detestable evidence of recent activity at the camp came in the form a freshly carved “Amber and Dad” in the small oak tree closest to the fire pit. Somebody within the last six months blessed us with this tacky, trashy-looking arborglyph so that now when in camp it is constantly glaring at you. I thought about carving it off, but I only had a small Swiss Army knife. I’m not sure if that would be the better thing to do, as it would have left a larger wound, but at least once it oxidized and darkened it would look semi-normal again.

Perhaps I just didn’t notice it before, but the star thistle seems to be really taking over the grassy patches of the woods. What was once grass around the camp is now bristling with thistle.

The picnic table at the camp shows signs of a bear that has torn a large splinter of wood from one of the seats. The claw marks are clearly visible for about a two foot section and were there last December. As I approached the camp this time I came across a rather large wet and shiny bear poop that looked like it was still warm.

The camp is located aside a small alder tree shrouded year round creek and there is a bedrock mortar grinding stone just a few feet from the fire pit.

Upper Santa Ynez Camp

Looking west toward the camp, which is located near the orange-colored sycamore tree. The photos of the camp were taken in December.

Still a few Humboldt lilies blooming out there.

And even some banana slugs still slithering around in the moister niches of the hills.

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