Black Bear

black bear Santa Barbara hikingI was lounging around camp in midafternoon boiling the billy. Had me a relaxation station set up in the shade of a tree, an air mattress propped up against a boulder as a makeshift recliner, and a long view down the creek.

I had pulled my can of boiling water off the campfire and set it beside my lounge chair, and when I glanced up before sitting down, I caught sight of a black bear just before it passed behind a wall of bushes along the creek bank.

I was startled for a second. It was odd to unexpectedly see an animal of that size, a big black beast, so close to me. I’m not accustomed to seeing anything larger than deer when out in the forest around here. It’s not like Sequoia National Park or other places where bears are a daily sight.

billy canI was all alone in that canyon, I thought, the biggest animal around, hadn’t seen anybody in two days. Then seemingly out of nowhere another large mammal suddenly pops into sight. And it was only a short stone’s throw from where I stood and coming directly toward my camp.

I bounded over to my backpack and ripped my camera from its pouch, but when I looked up the bear had already fled back across the creek. It was pushing through the brush and climbing over boulders moving up the slope out of the streambed. It paused briefly several times to glance back down at me as I watched it intently.

It’s only the second bear I’ve ever seen in the Los Padres National Forest. I saw one a couple of decades ago, but just a split second glimpse of its hind end as it charged into the chaparral, after having been surprised by me as I blasted down a dirt road on a motorcycle.

Nearly every time I go out for a hike I see bear sign. Bears seem to be everywhere all the time, judging by the number of footprints I see, but they’re sly and not commonly seen. On this day, however, a bear walked right up to my camp oblivious to my presence.

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The Slot at Devil’s Playground

Devil's Playground Santa Ynez Mountains hikingDevil’s Playground topside, Santa Ynez Mountains.

There are two worlds in Devil’s Playground. The topside and the underside.

The upper dimension is one of expansive sky, farsighted coastal views and the blinding sunlight and heat of a southward sloping mountainside facing the mirror-like Pacific Ocean.

The lower realm consists of the cool shadowy confines between and within the weathered stone. The massive caves and voids hollowed out of the sandstone by wind and rain and the cracks formed by the rise of the Santa Ynez Mountains and fracturing of massive bedrock plates.

The Slot is one remarkable geological feature of that subsurface realm, a some forty foot crack in the sandstone which a person can barely squeeze through in some sections.

Devils Playground Santa Barbara Goleta Santa Ynez MountainsDescending into the shady and shadowy underside of Devil’s Playground.

succulentMossy sandstone and dudelya succulents deep within the cracks.

Devil's Playground Goleta hikingThe red arrow points into The Slot.

Devils Playground Los Padres National Forest hiking Santa Ynez MountainsLooking down the pipe from the top end. Where’s Waldo?

Devil's Playground Goleta hikesThe oak tree popping out above the rock, and Pacific Ocean in the distance.

Santa Barbara hikes Devil's PlaygroundThe oak from below.

Devil's Playground Santa Barbara hikingLooking back toward the oak from further down the increasingly narrow Slot.

Devil's Playground Santa Ynez MountainsThe view overhead.

Devil's Playground hike Santa BarbaraShuffling through a tight spot in The Slot.

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Devil’s Playground, Santa Ynez Mountains

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The Crackling Oak Forest of Aliso Canyon

White Fire Aliso CanyonA stand of charred oak trees on an elevated flat overlooking the Santa Ynez River. The White wildfire was touched off by careless recreationists barbequing at White Rock Day Use Area in May 2013.

A thick and lumpy Pacific marine layer was flowing up the Santa Ynez River valley and a cool wind buffeted the crests of ridges. The late afternoon low cloud cover added a degree of dark character and attitude to the spring day giving the land a muffled, closed in feel.

I wandered aimlessly around the odoriferous burnt forest. It’s a canyon I’ve hiked through many times, but now I could see the lay of the land like never before, stripped naked and devoid of vegetative cover. Every fold and crease was visible.

I wondered what I might find. I was sure I’d see vintage beer cans long ago tossed aside by littering lushes and buried beneath the now nonexistent leaf mulch. The steel and aluminum variety that required a churchkey to open by punching holes into the can.

Apart from whatever other trinkets I might see, I thought I might perhaps, by the sheer luck of slim chance, stumble across some treasure, something historical from the Spanish colonial or American postcolonial period or perhaps even prehistoric artifacts, like a Chumash arrowhead, a spear point or a bowl. It wouldn’t be the first time, though it’s not a habit of mine to plunder or intentionally partake in such searches. All I found was a rusty horseshoe that now adorns the mid-point of the exterior wall above our garage door.

Aliso Canyon White Fire Santa YnezI climbed a shaley ridgeline to reach an elevated flat forested by a stand of coast live oaks overlooking the Santa Ynez River. I wandered a curvilinear course through the blackened trees inspecting the regrowth, which consisted in part of numerous wildflowers that are particularly adept at taking advantage of the slower reseeding of other wild weeds, which eventually smother or depress the delicate more attractive floral species.

I came to one particular oak that had had its core entirely burned out and stood twisted up into the air from the barren earth like some wicked piece of sculpted black art, as if it had been frozen still in the midst of a death throe as it was burned alive at the stake in some terrible form of sacrifice. It caught my attention enough that I walked over for a closer look.

Weirdo that I am, because, really, how many other people do this sort of thing. I felt compelled to smell its skeleton. I leaned slowly forward into its woody cavity and, with my nostrils inches away, took a sniff.

It was then, with my head inside the charcoal-colored wooden cavity traced with bits of ashy grey, that I noticed it was snapping, and crackling and popping, something like Rice Krispies cereal in a bowl of milk. It sounded like the smoldering coals of a campfire after the flames have died out. I had to touch it just to make sure it wasn’t still burning, though I knew that was silly. That’s how odd, and how similar to smoldering coals, it sounded.

Aliso Canyon White Wildfire
As I walked on, so silent was the place beneath the muffling blanket of maritime fog, I could hear the myriad crackling of an entire blackened forest of oaks cracking in the moist breeze. I stopped and stood looking into the back-lit, black tree skeletons reaching into the grey sky like the gnarled and crooked arthritic fingers of an old man.

The noise did not seem to be the result of scorched, fire-stiffened branches being forcibly bent by the current of air flowing up the valley, as much as it was the moisture in the breath of air blowing against the charcoal in some way playing upon the desiccated carbonaceous wood.

Whatever the phenomenon at work, the faintly lit gloomy and grey late afternoon sky, and the crackling black and bare trees and largely achromatic environment I stood alone within in no way connoted springtime. It felt otherworldly. Like the setting in a mystical realm of some fantastic tale that was about to unfold before me. So far removed did it feel from the bright and cheery, and otherwise ordinary ambiance that that particular patch of land holds on a sunny blue skied day prior to the burn.

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California Stream Orchid (Epipactis gigantea)

California Stream Orchid Epipactis gigantea Santa Ynez RiverA California stream orchid growing beneath a large boulder beside a seep in an otherwise dry creek feeding into a seasonal tributary of the Santa Ynez River.

I think that all but the keenest, most experienced observers would never suspect there is flowing water up this dry wash when looking at it from the flats below. The arroyo, however, turns into a small, bouldery creek bed that cuts a deep gash into the mountainside, but it’s hidden from plain sight until one gets right up to it. And through a short section of the miniature canyon, even in this year of record drought, water flows.

The creek bed is shaded through midday in the dappled light of a sparse cover of oak and sycamore trees, a mountainside casting a shadow over it through early morning and a massive outcrop shading the area by late afternoon.

Here in this unlikely moist nook, filled with a melange of scents comprised of the sweetness of trickling clear water, the earthy fragrance of wet sediment, and spiked with effluvial hints of decomposing organic matter, a place surrounded by parched south and west facing chaparral-covered hills that are blistering hot in summer months, California stream orchids thrive in abundance.

California Stream Orchid Epipactis gigantea Santa BarbaraA rather large orchid yet to bloom.

I recall the first time I saw this type of orchid in the wild, which is notable, for no other first experience with a native wildflower sticks out so prominently in my mind. I was about 10 or 11 years old exploring the forest with a friend and we found a small clump growing along Mono Creek, just below the campground and debris dam.

Mono Jungle

Mono Jungle

I was surprised to find orchids growing in this semi-arid region of south-central California, though this portion of Mono Creek tends to be exceptionally lush relative its upper reaches and other creeks in general. Nonetheless, the orchids seemed out of place even in the “Mono Jungle.”

I didn’t actually know for sure that they were orchids, but I knew enough to recognize that they certainly resembled orchids, and so that’s what we called them. Always curious, I touched one of the blooms and it moved, under its own power, which made the plant all the more fascinating.

California stream orchids are thigmonastic, meaning that they respond when touched. They move the lower portion of their blooms, presumably as a means to better spread pollen to pollinators that come in contact with their flowers. For this reason they are sometimes referred to as “chatterbox orchids,” for their nastic motions call to mind the jaw movement of a talking person.

Santa Ynez River tributary creekLooking down the dry creek below the seep where the orchids grow.

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Teardrop, Santa Ynez Mountains

Tear Drop swimming hole Santa BarbaraBare bunned at Teardrop.

Teardrop was named for its shape. It’s a small swimming hole, a large bathtub, bored out of sandstone bedrock visually and audibly accented by a waterfall dropping into its emerald water. Like many swimming holes, its depth fluctuates through the years depending on how heavily it rains and if winter storms are strong enough to flush the pool of rocks or too weak and so it fills with sediment. Located on a steep slope of exposed bedrock, which provides plenty of room to lay around basking in the afternoon sun, it’s unshaded by forest canopy throughout the hottest part of the day. (Teardrop is located on private property that is off-limits to the general public without permission from Mr. A.)

Tear Drop swimming hole

The waterfall into Tear Drop.

Santa Barbara swimming hole Tear Drop
I lived for a time as a kid not much more than a stone’s throw up the canyon from Teardrop on the old Whitaker property in a Six Pac camper shell with my mom. As one might imagine, it was a humble, nothing fancy time of scant funds and some hardship. I woke more than once in the night to the sound of my mom weeping in the darkness, probably concerned about how to make ends meet and how little she was able to provide for her young son. Yet, as a kid who had few expectations or assumptions about how things should be I didn’t seem to lack much.

There was only one other kid around of my age, an often barefooted boy named Eric who lived with his hippie mom, “Rainbow,” and little sister, Aurora, in a trailer on the other side of a small sloping potrero. He once came to our house wearing nothing but a large bath towel because he apparently had no other clothes.

I didn’t much get along with him, however, and so I spent many hours alone exploring the Los Padres National Forest right outside our aluminum shelled camper door. There was little space inside our “home” for anything other than eating a meal or sleeping so I lived outdoors for the most part during daylight hours.

The point is not to recount some sob story or to say I had it particularly rough, many others had it way worse, but that in such lean times I learned to appreciate the subtle beauty and value of my surroundings, the natural wealth which too often seems to be overlooked by most people.

In combining my imagination with nature the possibilities for fun seemed limitless. I spent a lot of time outside in the mountains discovering in the forest ways to keep me occupied. It was a formative time that helped foster an interest in and appreciation for the Santa Ynez Mountains.

Tear Drop swimming hole Santa Barbara Los Padres National ForestLooking down the spillway from Teardrop pool.

Tear Drop swimming Santa BarbaraLooking up the spillway toward Teardrop.

Santa Barbara swimming holes Tear DropLooking up from the next pool down, the top of Teardrop waterfall barely visible.

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Finding Frontier in the Forest Conquered

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