Pine Mountain from Piedra Blanca

An iPhone’s-eye view of a day hike I took this last Sunday up the Gene Marshall-Piedra Blanca National Recreation Trail to Pine Mountain Lodge Camp. It’s about six miles to the top with some 3000 feet of elevation gain.

Gene Marshall-Piedra Blanca Trail through the rocks of Piedra Blanca.

Trail on left along North Fork Piedra Blanca Creek.

Climbing up along the creek.

Pine Mountain environs.

Pine Mountain Lodge Camp.

Ice can stove

Pine Mountain 16 (2)Pine Mountain environs.

The main Pine Mountain Lodge Camp

Pine Mountain 15

Trail leading off the edge of the mountain toward Piedra Blanca.

View from trail on the way home.

Pine Mountain 11Looking down North Fork Piedra Blanca Creek.

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Bending the Map in Bear Canyon (Sespe Wilderness)

Falls

“Whenever you start looking at your map and saying something like ‘well, that lake could have dried up,’ or ‘ that boulder could have moved,’ a red light should go off. You’re trying to make reality conform to your expectations rather than seeing what’s there. In the sport of orienteering, they call that ‘bending the map.’”

—Edward Cornell professor of psychology at the University of Alberta, as quoted by author Laurence Gonzales in Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why

Bear Canyon creek cuts a narrow gap through the foot of the mountain towards its confluence with Sespe Creek. It’s a canyon patchily shaded by oak, maple, sycamore, alder and fir trees, with a couple of looming cliffs rising high overhead, and a seasonal creek that flushes through sections of massive boulders.

Slinking quietly into the canyon mouth with deliberation, I waded slowly into several thigh to waist deep pools of still water, the ripples lapping the creek banks sounding like the gentle slap of water against a boat hull. After the first four miles of trail, under that deadly sun and through the chaparral above and along the dry Sespe, Bear Canyon was a welcomed shady oasis with cool, clear flowing water.

The creek went dry shortly thereafter, however, and transitioned into significantly more rugged, bouldery terrain making for a decidedly more strenuous hike. A couple of different spots along the way held several inches of clear standing water in what was otherwise a dry creek bed. It was enough for drinking. The seeps support lush stands of alder trees and at one time not a few marijuana plants by the looks of it.

I found two huge spools of black plastic irrigation hose, as well as a hundred yards of hose run through the creek. Though everything was old and abandoned, it still added a bit of tension to the day’s previously relaxed feel. Alone and unarmed but for a three inch blade, I wished I had brought my USP.

Morning over Sespe Creek, the ball of fire in the sky utterly dominating the landscape and everything else found thereon.

It takes a respectable effort to get up Bear Canyon. Reaching its upper half, as the creek closed in and became tangled in thorny vines, tree branches and logs making forward progress harder, I began the ol’ “How much damn farther” routine in my mind. I wanted to reach my objective post haste, and was straining to match my expectations with the reality I was experiencing though the two did not jibe. If my body was not yet there, my mind was and it would force me to downplay and ignore contrary evidence and just proclaim victory. And so I did.

I rounded a bend to find a drop in the creek where it’s pinched between narrow banks and flows over exposed bedrock. My first thought was a tangle of, “Yes, finally, there it is” quickly followed by, “What a pathetic excuse for a waterfall,” which promptly turned into, “Nah, this can’t possibly be it.” I couldn’t believe that such an unremarkable tiny cascade, if it can even be called that, could possibly be worthy of the label “falls.” I was right. It’s not worthy and it wasn’t the falls. Then somehow, without much more thought, I just decided that it was the waterfall.

The creek bends and winds in a somewhat similar fashion both where I thought the falls were located and at their actual location. In each place the watercourse bends eastward, runs through a sort of “m” shape and then hooks back westward. The contour of the land roughly resembling the topo just enough to make it plausible in my mind, I bent the map, proclaimed my victorious arrival at the falls and went home a champion.

Not until days later did I realize that I’d mislocated myself, that where I stopped was not the waterfall. Idiot! Eight miles of wide open trail and about six miles of off-trail boulder hopping through the creek to go. The chore of returning remains. My mind got in the way the first time.

Sespe Creek Trail

A semi-dried catfish on the trail. It had what looked like puncture wounds on either side of its head, as if chomped by fangs or clenched by talons before being deposited in the middle of the trail.

Sespe Creek

Snake crossing

Sespe Creek

Sespe at Bear Canyon

Lower Bear Canyon

The creek gone dry.

View from the creek.

Looking down canyon.

Tall alder trees lining the creek.

Rattlesnake

The “falls.” D’oh! Nope.

Sespe sunset

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Chumash Grinding Stone


I found this Indian grinding stone or metate yesterday afternoon while on a hike in the Santa Barbara backcountry.

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The Ice Can Stove: A Brief History

An uncommon version of an ice can stove fitted with a large chimney cap and a damper on the flue.

In backcountry campsites scattered throughout the Los Padres National Forest in Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties lie the rusty remains of ice can stoves. In some places the wood-burning relics mark the long lost locations of old trail camps and are all that remain of sites that, as Craig R. Carey reminds us, “have been abandoned, removed, or forgotten.”

The stoves endure in various states of decay. Some are little more than remnant pieces of folded up, rusted out sheet metal riddled with bullet holes, while others are still in surprisingly good condition and functional. The creation of a California butcher nearly one hundred years ago, the stoves were fabricated from metal boxes that had once been used as molds to produce block ice.

A closer view of the chimney cap. The coiled wire handle of the flue damper is visible on the right and was used to control the intensity of the fire by increasing or decreasing the amount of oxygen flowing into the stove box.

The following brief history of the ice can stove was written by Bob Burtness and published in his guidebook, “A Camper’s Guide to the Tri-county Area: Santa Barbara – Ventura – San Luis Obispo.” The story is reprinted here with permission from Mr. Burtness.

The Ice Can Stove In Retrospect

Did you ever wonder why an ice can stove is called an “ice can stove?” Even though it looks more like a miniature steam engine without wheels, it began life as neither a steam engine nor a stove.

It all started back in 1919 when a butcher in Banning built a stove from a 100 pound ice mold, a steel container which, before the days of refrigeration, was used to freeze water into blocks for domestic and commercial use or loaded into freight cars filled with perishable food or other cargo requiring cool temperatures for shipment. The butcher showed it to Forest Ranger S. A. Nash-Boulden who expressed interest in it because it “had a tight bottom, top and sides.” It therefore heated quickly, provided a large cooking surface, and didn’t blacken pots and pans.

The butcher gave Nash-Boulden an ice can, and before the year was over, several of them were installed in some campgrounds. They proved to be so popular that the butcher offered the Forest Service all of his discarded ice molds. A short while later, the 100 pound size was superseded by a large 300 pound size. These were widely used, thanks to the early efforts of Mr. Nash-Boulden, in the 1920s and 1930s. During the Depression many of them were placed by members of the Civilian Conservation Corps who also built trails, campgrounds, debris dams, retaining walls, bridges, and other public works in order to have jobs, during a time when it was hard to obtain them, and also contribute toward the public good.

Although other camp stoves have been designed and put into use since the 1920s, the ice cans predominated into the 1930s and were still in general use in the 1950s. Even today one may still find examples in isolated campsites.

They did have disadvantages, though. They were always considered makeshift stoves (suggesting, at the same time, a good example of recycling), and the light sheet metal warped with heat. And, as we all know, nothing lasts indefinitely for weather, time, use, and abuse have exacted their tolls against these venerable veterans of the wilderness.

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Lazy Day in the Hills: A Canyon Hike Called Off

View of the sunrise on my way up Figueroa Mountain and into Santa Barbara’s San Rafael Wilderness.

I left the trailhead at 7 am, but was already back by 3 pm. Lack of sleep and fatigued combined with shriveled enthusiasm to put the kibosh on my plan for the day. And so the canyon shall have to wait.

It will be better when water is once again flowing, anyhow. I don’t often hike the area when the creeks are dry and the roar of trickling water filling the canyons was noticeably absent. The quiet of the canyons at this time of year made for an odd day. It was less lively, less dynamic. Silence where I’m not used to it.

There were a few standing pools of clear water along the tributary I headed up, but the creek was otherwise dry, the graduated lines of mineral stains on boulders showing where seasonal pools fill with winter rains. What little water there was no doubt tasted awful with more than enough dissolved mineral content to turn my stomach.

Lugging five liters of fluids up the canyon on three hours of sleep, powered by minimal and rapidly waning interest, quickly became intolerable after a mere mile and a half up the trailless, bushy creek bed. And so after but a mere 3.5 miles, 2 on trail and 1.5 off, I laid down for a rest under a boulder and promptly fell asleep. I woke sometime later to slowly mosey on back to my truck after standing in the creek and debating back and forth whether to continue upstream. I really didn’t want to, but I also knew I’d really regret it later if I turned around. I took two more short naps on my way back. Seven slowly trod miles round trip and I was done for the day and sitting in my truck with four hours of light left, not wanting to leave the woods but with no motivation to do much of anything.

I’ll return in spring with, hopefully, more water in the creek and certainly cooler weather. Maybe spend a night and have a bit more time to take a closer look around rather than push a long and exhausting one day’s quick passing glance. Maybe I’ll have a story of the trip next year sometime. Then again, perhaps this project will fall further down the long list of to-dos and won’t resurface for sometime to come. So many miles, so little time.

Might be a nice place to camp under the big oak tree on the right on the flat beside the creek.

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