Salmon River, Idaho

The Salmon River, which is the second largest tributary of the Snake River, is also known as The River of No Return. ©Clint Elliott

Map

“The Salmon River Canyon is one of the deepest gorges in North America, deeper even than the famous Grand Canyon of the Colorado in Arizona. But in contrast to the Grand Canyon, the Salmon River Canyon is not noted for sheer walls and towering heights, but instead for the variety of landscapes visible from the river; wooded ridges rising to the sky, huge eroded monuments and bluffs and slides, picturesque castles and towers, and solitary crags. The United States Congress designated the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness in 1980 and it now encompasses a total of 2,366,757 acres.

The name of this Wilderness has two roots. The Main Salmon River was called “The River of No Return” back in the early days when boats could navigate down the river, but could not get back up through the fast water and numerous rapids. The romantic name lives on today even though jet boats can navigate upstream. Second, the name Frank Church that was attached to this Wilderness in 1984, after it’s designation, is a memorial to honor a man who did so much to help preserve this wild central core of Idaho.”

United States Forest Service

Posted in Idaho | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Slippery Rock Stagecoach Road (19th Century)

Crossing Slippery Rock in the mountains above the Goleta Valley, along the original San Marcos Pass route over the Santa Ynez Mountains. The Pacific Ocean defines the horizon in the background. © Denver Public Library, Western History Collection

“Santa Barbara lies on the seashore, and until lately it was isolated from the rest of the world by high mountains. No wagon road or stage route ran into it from without, only mere trails or paths for horses over the mountains. For a few years they had had a mail once in two weeks by steamer from San Franciscotwo mails per month was the only news of the world outside.”

William Brewer  (1861)

“A ride on a frontier stage-coach was something to be remembered as a back-breaking, bone-twisting experience. ‘I felt like a mess of eggs being scrambled,’ one traveler described the trip. ‘I was bounced and tossed all over and despite our discomfort the driver never paid us any heed.’”

James D. Horan & Paul Sann, Pictorial History of the Wild West (1954)

From 1861 to 1901 Santa Barbara was linked to the rest of California and the world by stagecoach. Evidence of the historic route leading upstate over the Santa Ynez Mountains can still be seen in a few locations. Along a thin, sandstone capped ridgeline in the mountains above Goleta, a section of the old road crosses an expanse of exposed bedrock. Tracks left behind by stagecoaches and horse drawn wagons and carriages remain worn into the sandstone some ten- to twelve-inches deep or more. The parallel grooves are remnants of the original San Marcos Pass route that was built by Chinese work crews using picks, shovels and wheelbarrows.

The ruts had originally been carved to a depth of about three inches in order to help guide horse drawn conveyances up the technical section of primitive roadway. Over the years the iron-capped wheels of stagecoaches ground the ruts ever deeper into the soft deposit of stone. Running between the ruts, horizontal grooves were chiseled to help horses maintain traction on the slippery surface as they hauled the heavy stages up the mountain. The exposed bedrock was notoriously slick beneath metal horseshoes and stagecoach wheels and was dubbed “Slippery Rock” or “Slippery Sal.”

The Slippery Rock route was closed sometime around 1892 after the owner of the property the road ran through, Tom Lillard, got tired of drivers leaving his gate open and cows straying. A new route was graded up a ridge to the east of Slippery Rock or what is today known as Old San Marcos Pass.

Looking up Slippery Rock showing the two wheel tracks and the traction ruts carved horizontally across the wheel grooves.

Looking down Slippery Rock. Two different sets of wheel ruts are visible here, along with the horizontal traction grooves for horses. Once the first set of wheel ruts became worn too deeply a new set was carved.

A closeup view of the ruts and grooves.

The narrow section of Slippery Rock, which is shown below in a photo from 2012 with live oak trees having grown in the middle of the old road. © Denver Public Library, Western History Collection

Looking up the old road above Slippery Rock.A narrow section of the road barely wide enough for a stagecoach to slip by pinched between a cliff on the left and and wall of stone on the right.

State of the art suspension: rawhide straps.

Both of these historic stagecoaches can be seen at the Santa Barbara Carriage and Western Art Museum. The yellow carriage was actually one of the last mudwagon stages in use over San Marcos Pass.

Reference:

-Charles Outland, Stagecoaching on El Camino Real: Los Angeles to San Francisco 1861-1901 (1973)
-Walker A. Tompkins,  Stagecoach Days in Santa Barbara (1982)

Related Posts:

Through From Santa Barbara to San Francisco in 48 Hours (1873)

The Klutzy Career of Highwayman Dick Fellows (Stagecoach Robbery circa 1870s)

Posted in Santa Barbara County | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Stumbling Upon Chumash Rock Art

Last week I spent twelve hours hiking around an area of the woods that I was not familiar with and stumbled across a Chumash pictograph site that I did not know existed, and which I had never seen photos of.

I had been hiking over rugged terrain when I walked up on a sandstone outcrop that stood like a wall against a steep hillside. I stopped in my tracks staring at the rock overhang. Well, well, well, looky what we have here, I thought. It was an X marks the spot moment. Due to its form, prominence and location it was a feature of the landscape well worth taking a closer look at. There is something about rocky outcrops that never cease to attract my attention and lure me in. And this one at first glance felt like a site long visited by humans.

I pulled apart stringy, elongated branches of poison oak and carefully approached the outcrop, scanning its entirety and taking in the whole scene. As I stepped closer my frame of focus tightened and an inch wide ruddle-hued stain on the surface of the sandstone seized my eye; the quintessential telltale trace of prehistoric rock art. Aha! I glanced leftward and saw a panel of highly eroded pictographs about one square foot in size. Inspecting further, a few minutes later, I found several other faded paintings.

The sandstone is extremely flaky and constantly sloughing off, the lithic equivalent to a human face enduring the deep exfoliation of a chemical peel. Slabs of rock have fallen to the ground through the years and piled up and are in the process of being buried under sand and soil and grown over by annual grasses. Along the foot of the outcrop a massive chunk of stone that slid off the cliff face at some point is stuck into the ground on its edge. The semi-buried slab has several paintings on it and the soil level reaches right up to the bottom of the art. Perhaps other pictographs are buried. Beside it another slab of painted stone has fallen free and sits amidst a jumble of rock shards. It’s impossible to tell, however, whether the slabs were painted prior to having slid off of the outcrop or after.

Look closely at the crack line in the center of the frame. The faded remnant half of what looks something like a lizard or newt can barely be seen; a head arm and foot.

Related Post:

Stumbling Upon Chumash Bedrock Mortars

Posted in Backcountry | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Project Sespe Creek Connect: Stage II, Middle Sespe

Dry Lakes Ridge in morning light.

Stillman and I worked down the second helping of our Sespe Creek project on Monday. It was a quick half-day, in-and-out through middle Sespe from Tule Creek to Piedra Blanca Trailhead.

Once passed the Middle Sespe Trailhead, and relative the upper Sespe which Highway 33 follows closely, this middle section of the creek feels decidedly more wild and remote. It flows intermittently, as was expected this time of year. Some sections of the creek bed are devoid of any trace of moisture and filled with weeds, others are stagnant and mossy, some mere inches deep and faintly flowing, while still other lengthy portions are six feet or more in depth and notably aquatic and riverine in nature.

Outside the lush shelter of the narrow riparian zone surrounding perennial pools, the summer swelter is unforgiving and the landscape bakes beneath the relentless blinding sun. The arid chaparral covered hills framing deeply shaded, cold crystalline pools makes for a striking desert-oasis juxtaposition of habitat. Lounging in the damp shadows beneath the lush tree cover aside the creek, water defined and tempered the landscape in defiance of the summertime sun and heat. While only a stone’s throw away amidst the dessicated, crispy plant cover the blistering solar radiance dominated.

We marched across sun-scorched dry washes of burdensome, deep sand. Hopped down cattail- and willow-fringed pathways of waterworn and mineral stained dry boulders. And waded through deep emerald-tinged pools faintly illuminated in the penumbrae cast by the shade bearing verdant umbrella of cottonwood trees overhead.

Waterfowl and other large birds attracted to the fresh water oasis and the pray it sustains took flight frightened from the crash and splash of our plodding. A deer and doe trotted up a gravely slope while keeping eyes on our movement, another deer hopped through the brush just in front of our path. Small fish darted about our feet in the shallows, larger ones occasionally streaking through the shadowy depths of deeper pools. We walked by two large bullfrogs of some sort with beautiful mackerel designs on their backs.

In one deep stagnant pond at the foot of an outcrop of layered stone, I stared bewildered for a few seconds at a bizarre sprawling black form rippling beneath the water’s surface. Stillman appeared for a moment equally perplexed by whatever this strange moving thing was. To me it didn’t resemble anything living at first glance, but looked to be something like a wad of moss being slowly spread apart in the flow of a subtle underwater current. Yet, a second later its movement went from seemingly ordinary to mind warping and peculiar as my brain struggled in vain to interpret and define what my eyes were seeing. It then became clear that whatever it was, it seemed to be alive, because no inanimate object moves like that. Only after another few long confused seconds did it register in my mind that it was a tightly grouped, dense school of tiny fish. Few other times has something so ordinary so baffled my mind.

Walking through the creek at one point in about shin deep water, while foolishly messing around with my iPhone rather than watching where I was going, I lost my balance and fell into the water. And tossed my phone into the creek. I was on my hands and knees like a blind man feeling around the murky black water trying to find it. Fortunately I finally grabbed it, but this is an iPhone with a badly cracked glass screen that actually has shards of glass missing. So I wrote it off as done for right away. Yet, when I pulled it out I was surprised that it was still working and that I was able to snap several more photos. Then just as we came across some of the most photogenic stretches of the creek it finally stopped working. It actually remained powered and illuminated, but wouldn’t process any commands when touching its screen. So I stuck it in my pocket and finished the hike with a few less photos. Remarkably, on the drive home it started working and still works!

Overall, Stage Two of the Sespe Creek Project proved wetter, more serene, secluded and picturesque than Stage One.

Map of Southern California showing Sespe Creek.

Map showing Stage II Route

Looking up Sespe Creek at its confluence with Tule Creek, where we ended Stage I on our last outting.

Sespe Creek bed

Looking up Sespe CreekOne of the more interesting shaded, deep pools.Related Post:

Project Sespe Creek Connect: Stage I, Upper Sespe

Posted in Ventura County | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Gladiator Games of Bulls and Bears: Sport of Roping Grizzlies (1911)

This post is the fourth and final entry in a series:

First: Gladiator Games of Bulls and Bears: A California Blood Sport (1800s)
Second: Gladiator Games of Bulls and Bears: Recollections of Jacinto Damien Reyes (1880)
Third: Gladiator Games of Bulls and Bears: Lassoing Grizzlies (1904)

“Once in the ring at Ventura a mighty grizzly lassoed and brought captive into Ventura but three days before, started lopping toward a lean, wiry Spanish bull that was pawing up the dust in the corner of the arena. In the flash of a second the bull charged; the bear rose on its hind feet so that a man would have seemed a pygmy beside it. Never had there been so brutal and thrilling a spectacle in Spanish California.”

San Francisco Call (1911)

The following article appeared in the San Francisco Call on January 15, 1911.

The upper Ojai valley lies between the oak clad flanks of Sulphur mountain and the bare gray cliffs that line the sides of the Topa Topa range in their dizzy ascent of a sheer 3,000 feet. At this time of the year the scouts of coming pigeon flocks are taking note of the supply of feed, a filmy blue haze floats down the Ojai and, in the early dawn before the wind in the trees, the shrill of the locust and the innumerable voices of the forest have come in with the new day, one may hear the tinkle of the belled cattle on the distant slopes of Sulphur mountain and the faint, bleating bark of the wild foxes. Now and then, indeed, there may come the shrill whining yell of a mountain lion, calling like a child in agony.

Once the upper Ojai was the most famous hunting ground in all Ventura county. There, in the early days of California, came both Indians and white men in quest of game. Here, too, came the four footed hunters, mountain lions, that followed the wandering bands of deer and huge grizzly bears that would knock down a heifer on the range as easily as a cat destroys the mouse with which it has been pawing.

In the ’60s and as late as the early ’70s grizzly bears were a common sight in the mountains of Ventura county. They alone of the all wild creatures became ever bold enough to contest the country with mankind, a fact which rendered these huge creatures an easy prey, not to bullets, for a grizzly may charge a mile or more and destroy his assailants even if shot in a dozen vital places, but to the handiest devices employed by the Spanish vaqueros (cow punchers), the lasso.

Because grizzly bears could be easily lassoed there were held in old Ventura town in the early days some of the strangest battles ever knownfights between huge grizzly bears, huge steer killers that never had been weakened by captivity, and the lithe, thick necked Spanish bulls, sharp of horn, quick of foot, always ready for a fight and with a charge like that of a catapult.

In the fight between the bulls and the bears Bruin usually came off second beat. Although a grizzly can easily knock down the greatest steer when he approaches him by a flank attack on the range, he would generally be unable to resist the furious charge of the bull in the arena. The old Spanish bull was ready to fight at the drop of the hat. He had a thick arched neck, sharp pointed horns, was light and quick of foot and could turn a corner as sharp as a cotton tail rabbit. When the bull would be loosened into the arena–Woof! Up would go its tail, down would go its head, and like a flash it would charge the bear with an impact that could not be resisted.

In its attack in the arena the bull exhibited greater cunning than the bear and a less disregard of consequences. The old time Spanish bull had a way of starting his charge from the side. His first few steps would be sideways and this would completely baffle the bear, which would almost always anticipate a frontal attack and plan to break the bull’s neck with a pat of the paw as the bull charged past. Once in the ring at Ventura a mighty grizzly lassoed and brought captive into Ventura but three days before, started lopping toward a lean, wiry Spanish bull that was pawing up the dust in the corner of the arena. In the flash of a second the bull charged; the bear rose on its hind feet so that a man would have seemed a pygmy beside it. Never had there been so brutal and thrilling a spectacle in Spanish California. In an instant the bull struck the bear knocking it several feet backwards. There was a confused struggling mass. Then the dust cleared. The bull lay dying, the bear was fatally gored and afterwards shot and sold by a butcher. This was an exception.

Usually a bull and a grizzly would not engage in the fight with equal vigor. The Spanish bulls were as wild almost as the bears themselves, and sometimes both would hang around the edges of the arena, so disturbed by the sight of the crowds that each for the moment was forgetful of the sight of the traditional enemy.

In the upper Ojai lives Thomas Clark, a wealthy old timer and widely known, who came there in 1868 and has lived in the same spot ever since. It was from Mr. Clark that the writer gleaned this story. Clark is as hale as a well seasoned oak. When he came to the upper Ojai the sight of a grizzly was a common one to him, and his young wife thought no more of a deer loping down the mountain slopes than would a city girl who sees a sparrow.

Clark was a companion of former United States senator Thomas R. Bard. Many a time in the old days the two young men tramped through the mountains making surveys, and so it happened that the pioneer came to know the grizzly as one knows his neighbors. In his first years in Ojai Clark found that the grizzly regarded man sometimes with complete indifference, sometimes with hostility and but rarely with fear. When a bear did slink out of sight it was generally because the great animal regarded discretion as the better part of valor. Once Clark saw three grizzlies, a huge male, a she bear and a half grown bear, plan the killing of a great steer. The killing took place in full daylight on an open plain, and the bears paid no attention to Clark, who stood in the open about 150 yards away. The cattle were grazing in an open space, and a few moments before the attack was made Clark saw the bears slowly shuffling up a narrow arroyo. All at once the three bears separated. In less than half a minute a bear rolled out of the fringe of willows that ran down like a point in the little plain. The bear was doubled up and bounded along like a football rolling toward the cattle, which, instead of fleeing, pricked up their ears and slowly approached the amazing spectacle. Suddenly at angles from either side of the plain the two other bears rushed forth, and almost before one could tell what had happened the larger of the two bears had reached the great steer that, engaged in the engrossing diversions of the bears, was unprepared for the attack, and with a paw heavy as lead and soft as velvet had felled the steer to the earth.

In five minutes since Clark had first seen the grizzlies they had devoured a large part of the steer.

Clark had traveled to the Ojai from Sonora and Marin counties. In Marin county he had seen the tracks of old “Club Foot,” a giant grizzly for which bounties from $500 to $2,500 were offered in different California counties. In Ventura county he again met with old Club Foot’s tracks. The huge bear traveled at night and wandered from Sonoma and Mendocino counties as far south as San Bernardino. Always he crossed the upper Ojai at the same point, and it was said he bore a hundred bullets. Once Clark met a hunter with a pack of hounds who was on the trail of Club Foot. He had followed the bear from Santa Cruz county, he said, but had been unable to come up with the bear. Near Los Angeles the hounds had run into Club Foot and were all killed by the huge bear, but the trapper got a new pack of dogs and, says Mr. Clark, he finally killed old Club Foot in the San Bernardino mountains and obtained the reward.

The carcass of Club Foot dressed more than that of the average steer. For years his coming and going had been recorded by the print of a huge misshapen paw, once caught in a trap.

But back to the fight between the bulls and bears.

Bull and bear fights have been held by the Spanish people since the first Latin races went to the Pyrenees. The grizzly of California is bulkier, more powerful and desperate than the brown bears of Europe. It usually took four men to lasso a grizzly, and the vaqueros of the Ventura range were equal to the job. The west never had better cowboys than the Spanish or Mexican cow hands in early California days.

They were daring, certain and dextrous, and so it happened that the vaqueros would ride out from Ventura to the upper Ojai long before morning and would have reached the stamping grounds of Old Ephriam when the first dawn came. Almost always, says Tom Clark, they would get a bear. Usually the vaqueros separated, riding on ridges and overlooking the surrounding country and the deep brush covered arroyos. When bruin was sighted shrill yells would proclaim that the quarry had been seen. Not much lassoing could be done in the brushy spaces, although the vaqueros were amazingly expert in getting through the brush. The slim little cow ponies needed room to get away. But in any ordinary country, brush or no brush, the vaquero would ride up within throwing distance of the grizzly and lasso him as easily as a rope might be thrown around a steer. When the rope was first thrown over the bear’s neck, or around one of its legs it would be no more to the great creature than a fly. Usually Old Ephraim would charge at the horseman, who would ride sideways, keeping the rope taut. Finally the bear would stand on his hind legs and slowly coil in the rope with his paws, pulling both horse and man toward him, this, of course, would be only possible if the bear could get some purchase on the ground. Not one nor even two vaqueros on horseback would be a match for a grizzly bear, because old bruin generally had more pulling power than a pony on a brushy hillside, and because, too, the country would not always permit two horsemen to pull from different directions. But after the first noose had settled over bruin’s head a second would usually come whizzing and soon the big bear would find itself held taut from three or four angles by as many vaqueros.

After that it would only be the work of a few moments to truss the great bear up, load him on a wagon and take him to Ventura, where for the amusement of the crowd who would gather on a holiday afternoon, he would be pitted against a Spanish bull.

Posted in Santa Barbara, Ventura | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment