Hand Caught Trout in the Sierra

Sierra Nevada Mountain Road

“There’s a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore like an idiot.”

Steven Wright

With our long ago planned outing thoroughly drowned in a week’s worth of forecasted Oregonian rain, we decided on an alternative eleventh hour fallback option and hit the super slab toward California’s Sierra Nevada for two weeks of RV camping.

We arrived at our creek side campsite in late afternoon. Situated beneath tall timber with granite outcrops, well separated from other sites and on the bank beside the creek, it was the best spot in the entire campground. There was even a small pool in the creek right below the campsite perfect for the kids to play in.

Though the pool immediately caught my eye as being a prime trout hole, its proximity to a popular campground, right off a paved highway leading to world renown tourist traps, put any hope of hooking fish out of mind. The spot had been heavily fished for decades. Trout that happened to find themselves therein on any particular season had no doubt been routinely bombarded by every lure and bait known to mankind. I was sure that if on the off chance there were fish in the pool they’d ignore anything I threw at ’em.

Shortly before sundown we ventured down to the creek to take a looksee around and I was astonished to see several trout holding in the pool. Not minnows, but fair sized fish. They measured some eight to ten inches or so and sent me scrambling to retrieve my rod and reel. It was a perfect opportunity for my daughter to catch her first fish.

But one clumsy cast confirmed my previous pessimism, as the trout darted away as soon as my line hit the water. My wife giggled at my inept attempt. The world’s most powerful brain, human, defeated by a fish brain the size of the tiniest pebble. I was left standing on the bank feeling like an idiot.

Sierra creekThe next day, late afternoon, I’m considering giving the trout pool another try when I see two rather portly guys down there hobbling around on the cobblestones gracelessly tossing their lines in. I’m instantly irritated.

I mosey down toward the water with my daughter, acting indifferent and pretending not to be interested in their fishing, when I’m thrown into a mental tail spin and my afternoon is thoroughly spoiled. I see one of the guys hoist a stringer from the stream loaded with dangling trout.

Having been pessimistic about my chances of catching a fish, I had put in a halfhearted attempt the previous day and prematurely written off the spot. Just a few sloppy casts with one lure and then a pathetically tied bait rig for my daughter to play with.

Seeing two dudes apparently pulling out trout at will sent me stomping back to camp in a foul mood, angry with myself for not having given the pool a serious try. My daughter asking why two guys were catching all our fish, and further innocent comments about how we’re not good fisherman, didn’t help.

Keeping an eye on the two guys from our camp, I watch them leave and then walk down to the water to see if they did indeed catch all the trout we had seen. It was bad enough that I blew my chance, that these two guys showed up and raided the hole right in front of me. But when I walk up to the edge of the stream I see cigarette butts gleaming white against the darkened wet sand.

The pool had been plundered not by some skilled angler or woodsmen I might be able to respect, but two slobs with no consideration for anybody or anything else. Our pristine little pool below camp was now strewn with cigarette butts and wads of guts from recently cleaned fish.

Sierra CreekSulking around camp, I decided to take a walk up the creek to check out the small bridge where the road crosses, thinking there might be a pool below it. On the way up the stream with my daughter, walking sloppily and being preoccupied, I slipped on the rocks and stepped into the chilly water twice, which further aggravated my already irascible mood. With less than an hour of light left I had two cold wet feet, cigarette butts and trout entrails but no fish.

There was no pool beneath the bridge. The water flowed under the two lane overpass and tumbled down over a section of small jagged rocks and into a large puddle, which, while some twenty feet across, measured only about six or eight inches deep at most. The downstream side of the puddle was walled off by another berm of small jagged rocks, which the water flowed through like a sieve.

As we stood at the edge of the shallow, gravelly puddle we had hoped was a deep pool, my eagle-eyed daughter, who over the course of our trip would spot nearly every notable wild animal we saw, shouted excitedly as she spotted a trout swimming by in just several inches of water. I couldn’t believe it. Then, with even greater excitement, I realized the fish was trapped.

The creek under the bridge is cemented over. When trout swim or get washed downstream over the cement chute under the bridge they can’t swim back upstream. The fish can’t escape the shallow puddle by swimming downstream either because of the berm of small jagged rocks. The creek works remarkably well as a natural fish trap.

troutAn eleven inch ugly snatched by hand.

In the middle of the puddle there was a small boulder just big enough to stand on. When I chased the trout into the shallows trying to catch it the fish darted under the boulder and hid. I made my way out onto the boulder, and as I knelt down and peered over its edge, I saw several trout tails fluttering back and forth in the gentle current.

With only inches of open, slow-flowing water in the puddle, the single boulder was the only shelter the trout had and it had attracted a hand full of them. Crouching on the boulder, I slowly dipped each hand into the water and slid them into a surprisingly deep cavity under the rock. I could feel several fish slithering around.

Blindly grasping, slowly, gently, I carefully felt out the largest fish, clenched tightly onto it and ripped it from the water triumphantly holding it aloft. What better way to fortify my flagging masculinity? If only I’d had a loin cloth on and been bare chested with a big Grizzly Adams beard!

My daughter erupted into a fit of squeals and screams and cheered me on to catch more. I snapped a thin green branch from a nearby tree, bent it in half into a v-shape and slide one end through the trout’s gill plate and out its mouth for a makeshift stringer, before going back to the boulder for another try. Too young to understand the trout was dead, and not having seen me knock it out on a rock, my daughter promised to dutifully watch our one glorious fish so it didn’t swim away.

It turned out there were six trout under the rock. I managed to grab five, three of which I kept, the other two I let free in the creek below the trap. I had never caught a fish by hand. “Just like a bear,” my daughter noted. What had begun as an extremely disappointing afternoon ended triumphly. It was a surprisingly unexpected chance experience, which far exceeded any excitement we may have had in catching the fish below camp with a plain rod and reel. One never knows when luck is going to swing dramatically in their favor.

foodCamp beside the creek, fresh caught trout roasting on the grill over oak, and on the stove sauteed vegetables sizzling their way toward caramelization and fried potatoes gettin’ crispy.

Related Posts:

Native Trout of Los Padres National Forest

Waterfalls, Trout and Indian Mortars in the Sierra

Native Steelhead of Yore, Santa Ynez River

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Guadalupe Valley Waterfall, Mexico

Guadalupe Valley Waterfall, MexicoA waterfall located on the outskirts of the Guadalupe Valley in Mexico, a noted wine making region just outside of Ensenada. The falls pour into Agua Caliente Canyon, so named, officially or unofficially I’m not sure, for the natural hot springs just upstream. There is an old rancher by the name of Federico that owns the property through which you pass to reach the waterfall and hot springs and he charges a toll to open his gate. He handcrafts his own fresh cheese that he offers tasters of and sells to passersby.

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Mono Narrows Camp

mono jungle 1Mono Jungle under early morning fog.

I walked so much I wore down my feet
Do you know how weird that feels?

Shel Silverstein, “Foot Repair”

A dense marine layer clings to the Santa Ynez Mountains as I putter up the road straining to see in the gloomy predawn darkness. I’m Freddy piloting the Mystery Machine through some fog-filled Scooby Doo mountain scene. I’m surprised to emerge into clear skies midway up the mountain, but when driving along the crest of the range a bit later, I see a thick river of fog flowing up the Santa Ynez Valley thousands of feet below. A finger of it is poking up into Mono Creek, where I’m heading. Some 45 minutes later, while standing at the unmarked trailhead, I watch a chilly blast of condensation flowing farther up the canyon. So much for escaping the coastal fog bank and getting some backcountry sun.

mono creek Mono Creek

At six-thirty a.m. I’m stomping down the trail rhythmically pounding poles into the earth like some bipedal insect with spindly elongated arms. With over eighteen miles to cover for the day I’m eager to put distance behind me. Storming up the weedy trail, a machine on autopilot, I’m daydreaming about what the day may bring rather than focusing on the trail or its surroundings.

Yet, what begins as a fair trail through chaparral and riparian and oak woodland soon peters out and fades from sight. My rapid pace slams to an abrupt halt. Mere minutes from the trailhead and I’m standing around wondering where the footpath went I was so easily following just seconds before.

Mono Creek TrailTrail through the trees along the creek.

mono creek hikeCutting a bench along the creek.

The lowermost section of the Mono-Alamar Trail is a fair sampling of classic southern Los Padres less traveled tread. Even when the trail is there, it’s still sorta not. I’m on it, but am I really? Yes, I am, definitely. Wait, am I? Well I was. I’m searching for it then realize I’m on it. I think I’m on it just before having to search for it. Walking it one second and wandering after it the next.

It’s early morning and I’m a bit dazed and spacey. I’ve been ripped from the carefree abstract realm of a daydream by a sudden concerning present reality: where’s the trail? I’m somewhat startled. It’s more thinking than I care to muster at the moment. I didn’t expect to start this game so soon.

I was hoping to quickly cover some distance rather than slowly fight my way through the brush. I don’t feel like dealing with the chore of route findingdo I go right? left? straight? back? into the creek? along the bank? A few incorrect choices strung together and I’ll be way off course wasting time and energy.

A bad feeling ripples through me.

Mono Creek ogilvyA mostly dry section of Mono Creek.

mono creek ogilvy ranchThe Ogilvy Ranch property,which was once the site of the Chumash Indian village “Sigvaya.”

Mono CreekLooking down the winding green belt of Mono Creek. The marine layer being sucked over the backside of the Santa Ynez Mountains in the distance.

I wander through sparse undergrowth beneath a canopy of oak, crunching through deep leaf mulch, scanning the landscape for signs of the trail, but resolved to push farther up canyon without it if necessary. Coming to Mono Creek I spend a minute searching for a way across without getting wet. It’s no more than several inches deep but I’m hesitant to get my feet wet so soon. I finally relent for sake of time and walk through. It’s a bad decision. Hiking with wet feet has never troubled me, but today will be different.

Despite weaving on and off the inconspicuous trail for miles on end I’m able to maintain a decent pace. Several times, when seemingly having lost the trail, I have the good fortune of looking up to see a faded length of ribbon flagging the route (Hat tip BC). My luck spotting these markers in key places is uncanny. I’m amazed. I’ll be marching along and suddenly feel a need to stop to reassess my route, and when I glance around, there’s a flag or the tell tale signs of the trail leading through the brush.

CalochortusMarisposa lily (Calochortus clavatus)

mono creek

survival shelterA streamside cave several feet off the ground made into a prime survival shelter. Somebody put in a small stacked stone fire pit at one end and partially closed off the cave using long planks of cottonwood bark.

mono creek pool 1Somewhere around the seventh mile, about two miles before reaching Mono Narrows Camp, a building discomfort in my feet intensifies into a deep tissued tenderness. Stomping up the canyon across shifting sections of uneven soils and over cobblestones and gravel and through brush and down and up crumbling streamside slopes—hiking without a trail, that ishas left my wet feet battered and sore.

I sit for a brief rest and consider turning around and heading back, how easy it would be, but I continue on determined to make it up into the narrows.

The discomfort had been ignorable, but it’s grown into an increasingly irritating pain. It’s now frequently determining my foot placement and slowing me down as I try to lessen the impact of each footfall. Every step sends a weird sensation pulsing through my feet that feels as though the bottoms are peeling off like the delaminated sole of a cheap well-worn shoe. I stubbornly press on. I have to at least reach the campsite.

Mono Creek Narrows CampMono Narrows Camp center frame under the oak tree.

I sit at Mono Narrows Camp debating whether or not to continue up to the narrows itself. I hate the thought of not proceeding, but the nine mile hike has exacted a surprisingly severe toll on my feet. Boulder hopping farther up the rugged creek would inflict more harm and make my return trip slower and more painful.

I don’t have enough time to have a good look around the narrows and make it back to the trailhead before sunset. I’d only get a passing glance. It’s not worth it. I don’t want to be limping around with shredded feet, possibly fumbling my way down canyon through the dark by headlamp, fighting my way through the bushes and searching for a substandard trail, which took effort enough to find in broad daylight.

I capitulate, though, and leave my pack at camp and take off up the creek. I feel compelled to at least make an effort. I scamper up the drainage for a short distance before slowing my pace and eventually stopping. I can’t trust my aching feet to carry me through the narrows and back to the trailhead by sunset. I’m done. I stand looking longingly up the canyon. Then, begrudgingly, turn back.

Mono Creek Narrows Camp (2)Mono Narrows Camp

Mono Creek Narrows Camp (3)Another view of the camp.

Despite my weakened condition I manage a fairly normal pace back down the canyon and reach the trailhead well before sunset, some twelve hours after having left. With ample light remaining in the day I regret having turned around before the narrows.

Later, back at home, after finally pulling off a wet boot, the sock peels from the bottom of my foot like the rind of an orange. I’m shocked to see how white and puffy my wrinkled foot looks, as if it’s been dipped in bleach.

Several large irregularly shaped blisters look more like patches of flesh that have separated from the underlying tissue than liquid filled bubbles. The blisters look and feel totally bizarre to the touch. Not only did it feel like delamination when hiking it looks like it too.

Wrinkles in the sole of my foot have turned to deep aching creases and I wonder if the skin has in fact split to expose thin slits of raw flesh. The next day I’m awkwardly hobbling around the house on fat swollen feet that barely fit into my flip-flops. Good thing I turned back early.

Mono Creek Looking downstream past Mono Narrows Camp on the right.

mono creek Looking up stream from camp.

mono narrows 12Looking into Mono Narrows.

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Indian Creek Waterfalls and Narrows

Gibraltar ReservoirSanta Barbara backcountry

“My companion and I, for I sometimes have a companion, take pleasure in fancying ourselves knights of a new, or rather an old, order, —not Equestrians or Chevaliers, not Ritters or Riders, but Walkers, a still more ancient and honorable class, I trust. … No wealth can buy the requisite leisure, freedom, and independence which are the capital in this profession.”

—Henry David Thoreau, Walking

Stillman and I spent two days hiking the better part of Indian Creek. We enjoyed two days of the classic Santa Barbara frontcountry/backcountry seasonal atmospheric dichotomy, whereby the coastal Santa Ynez Mountains serve as a dam baring the inflow of maritime fog into the hinterlands. While the immediate coast was smothered in the confines of a cool, heavy marine layer, we escaped to the backcountry wilderness which was basking in the sunny warmth of spring under an expansive blue dome.

As per usual we set off afoot around dawn, eagerly looking forward to the next 36 hours of woodland walking, each of us “self-contained,” as Steinbeck once wrote, “a kind of casual turtle carrying his house on his back.”

After a strenuous push up the narrowing canyon, boulder hopping, sloshing through waist deep pools, scrambling up and down stony slopes, scooting across ledges, and trudging along at a humble but steady pace, we finally arrived in the latter half of the afternoon.

Stillman single-handedly turned the long abandoned site, buried in a deep layer of leaf mulch, into a functional camp, stoked up a fire and then prepared the classic western meal: beans, bread and steak. Filet Mignon grilled over an oak wood fire, sourdough slathered in butter and baked beans. Good stuff, Maynard, I’m tellin’ ya.

Topping it off with a hot cup of coffee or two, we sat into the night some time watchin’ the flutter of the fire, listenin’ to the chirp and croak of crickets and frogs, the trickling stream, and havin’ a damn fine night. By around eight next morn, we were packed up and stepping back into the cool water of Indian Creek on our way back.

Prickly Phlox Leptodactylon californicumPrickly phlox (Leptodactylon californicum) was abloom.

Indian Creek Meadow CampThe view up Indian Canyon as seen from Meadow Camp.

Indian Creek CampIndian Canyon Camp lies under the oaks in a grassy field above the creek. From there the trail ends and it’s into the creek upstream any which way you want.

While lower Mono Creek was dry, Indian Creek was flowing all its way down canyon. It was interesting to note the sedimentary change in lower Indian Creek falls and the creek itself in general. When I was last there in June of 2010, three years after the Zaca Fire, the second largest wildfire on record in California and which incinerated the area, the upper pool was filled with gravel and sand.

The following rainy season brought an abundance of precipitation, well above normal, which must have finally flushed the pool clean of sediment, sending it downstream to eventually further fill in the increasingly shallow Gibraltar Reservoir. In the bright afternoon sun the pool is colored with that ever inviting characteristic emerald hue, though its intensity is not fully reflected in these most recent photos.

The creek itself has also largely been flushed clear. Whereas in 2010 many stretches resembled something like a gravel garden path that made for easy walking through the water, nowadays the creek is noticeably rockier, the thick layer of gravel gone.

Indians Creek WatefallsStillman

Indian Creek waterfallsThe upper pool of the lower falls, as seen in June 2010.

Indian Creek waterfallsSame pool as seen in April 2013. Note the absence of sediment, the difference in water volume over the falls in this drier year, as well as the tall green tree behind Stillman, which in the photo from 2010 is no more than a small sprout barely visible in the shadows.

Indian Creek waterfalls

Indian Creek hikingIndian CreekIndian Creek hikeIndian Creek cragsIndian Creek hikesIndian Creek Stillman taking a gander at a narrow spot in the canyon.

Indian Creek Perfect 10The Perfect 10

Indian Creek narrowsLooking downstream through the narrows of Indian Creek.

Indian Creek Narrows viewLooking upstream at the narrows.

Indian CreekThe ubiquitous fire scorched skeletons of chaparral.

Indian Creek

Related Post:

Indian Creek Waterfalls

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Orange Fire, Blue Twilight Along Sisquoc River

“You know to be silent in the wilderness. It is that which matters, to learn to live with silence.”

Louis L’Amour, The Californios (1974)

Lying in the dirt beside the campfire, a long hard day’s hike from the nearest road, a steaming cup of coffee in hand, watching the warm glow of sunset fade to the cool colors of night and reflecting on the day’s happenings.

The falling temperature drawing a floral and earthen mélange of fragrance from the surrounding wilderness, chaparral at dusk, herbal and sweet smelt briefly between swirling plumes of wood smoke biting at the nostrils.

The staccato pop and crackle of the building blaze exploding sporadically, miniature gunfire from the sandstone encircled pit, embers shot winding into the endarkened void overhead, the aqueous din of the nearby Wild and Scenic Sisquoc River constant.

It is the smallest elements, frequently overlooked, often ignored and mostly taken for granted as ordinary and boring, when attention is focused on the minutes of the moment, which can weigh heavy on the balance of life.

If allowed.

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